Settling like the snow

Just like the snow, we have drifted to this place by way of the sky and are now trying to find our place here, if even only temporarily.

One day it snowed and the stuff has been everywhere ever since. The briefest of Springs has passed and Winter has fully manifested itself in a matter of less than two weeks. Temperature rated boots are out and equipping hats and gloves have become part of the daily routine. It is a nice change from the mud that still lurks somewhere under the icy surface. Everything looks so pristine and pure compared to what it looked like just a short while ago, with trash and mechanical parts strewn all over. It has become apparent that Winter is upon us. The river is starting to freeze and the locals simply smirk after asking, " is this your first Winter in Alaska?"

The sun seems to enjoy sleeping in until about 10:30 these days and has an early bed time around 5. The first big storm hit us a few days ago and gave us a hint of what we are in store for. Wind gusts hit up to 65 MPH, blowing every direction with intensity, and kept me convinced all night that a window was about to blow out at any time. Luckily that never happened. There were also flood warnings for this area, but noting materialized as it did in some nearby villages. I would have never thought that a frozen river could flood, but I suppose there are many things yet to learn.

Snow machines have nearly phased out four wheelers (Hondas) and speed by even faster and more recklessly. I did get t to ride on one for the first time and I understand why people drive so crazily. They are a lot of fun and traffic tickets are virtually nonexistent "round these parts". There are even tiny snow machines for kids. If I thought that I had ever shoveled snow before, it was quickly forgotten after having done it only a few times here. Apparently I'm building character.

Apt to adapt

Marta and I have been here for close to three months and are getting used to our new environment. There have been quite a bit of changes during this time and the list of life lessons continues to grow. When I first got here I had no definite plan for employment other than helping Marta while she gets used to her first year as a full-fledged teacher. My days mostly consisted of waking up at around 5:30 AM and preparing a breakfast and lunch for Marta before heading over to the school. There I would make copies and perform other small tasks while she got ready to teach all day. At home I kept up the housework and cooking and occupied myself by fixing up the house and wandering around town. Although I am severely directionally challenged, there are only so many places one can go and within a week I became fairly acclimated to the area.

A few weeks ago I was surprised by a phone call from the AC store (one of the only employers in town) in  response to my application and wanted to know if I still wanted to work. I went down to fill out the paperwork and within minutes I was learning how to stock shelves at a grocery store. I am currently averaging Forty hours a week doing everything from stocking, helping with deliveries, and sometimes working the cash register. My co-workers are great to work with and I feel very lucky to have the opportunity to get a more intimate interaction with the community on a daily basis.

Things have been a little rough since I took the job at the store though. I wasn't expecting to be working full time and I don't get home until close to Eight in the evening. The both of us have not had full time commitments at the same time for awhile now and the change has been tough to get used to, especially since Marta is at the very beginning of a new career. Fortunately we have the weekends together, but time is limited due to the copious amount of it required for lesson planing.

Aside from reading and watching movies, we like to go on long walks together, usually to the airport because the scenery is nice and there is a loop that brings us back into town. We recently went to the cemetery on a nice sunny day with our friend Sharon and enjoyed the path along the boardwalk through the trees. Also, Donkey Kong Country has become dangerously addicting and is perpetuating procrastination, but allows for a much needed distraction from the tires of the week.

Change is one of the necessary ingredients for this dish we call life and as Winter fast approaches we are sure to encounter plenty more. Remaining mindful of our goals and priorities will be the inspiration for us as we continue to live through this challenging venture.

And so it begins

The flight to Emo was surreal. The vast openness of the tundra supplemented by a menagerie of colors and textures is unlike anything I have seen. From the sky ponds and puddles speckled across the ground covered in various algae reminded me of looking into a Petri dish full of bacteria. Winding rivers and streams seemed almost like veins and capillaries flowing to the heart of the Bearing Sea. The seasoned hunter just in front of me had obviously seen this landscape numerous times before because as my eyes were fixed to the window the entire time, he was doing the sleepy head bob most of the way. After two hours though it starts to look pretty much the same, but still wonderful nonetheless.

Soon after the plane landed Hunter and I were picked up in the school truck by Marta and Bob, the principal. Happy reunion and off to the new home. Bob was hospitable enough to bring us via the scenic route past the dump and deteriorating road alongside the river. He thought this would be a nice way to show me what I was getting myself into. I received a first warm welcome from the seagulls as they feasted on open garbage bags and moose parts. Further down the muddy dirt road was the Honda and snow machine graveyard, which is actually an impressive attraction.  We passed the company store on the way into town and and continued further past some very modest local houses. Soon after arrived at our home.

View from our living room window

Situated practically right on the river our house is in a very nice location. It is somewhat away from the school so we don't get bothered too much by the rambunctious kids, but close enough that it is only a five minute walk away. Either of the two stores are fairly close as is the post office. The house itself is more than I had expected. There are two good sized bedrooms, a nice kitchen, a separate laundry room, and even a decent sized room where the water heater is that I use for tool storage. It has new carpet and linoleum, a new couch with even newer holes bitten into it (thanks Moggie), and two new Queen size beds.

After Spending only a little time getting situated at home we were off to the community center to watch some Yu'pik song and dance. It turns out that I arrived on the same day that a weekend long community event was starting. This was great because I got to introduce myself to a lot of new people and get a great chance to see some of the traditional culture from this area. At this event there were prizes consisting of different clothing items as well as snacks and treats in addition to the different songs and dances. And of course no community get together can be complete without Eskimo line dancing. Yes, its true. There was even country music and they were quite good at it.

It was sure an exciting day and I feel most fortunate to be able to live these sorts of events. The next couple of days consisted of more community events like watching the kids play basketball, making tie die shirts, and having a barbeque, but most of all just getting settled in and acclimated to this new place. This next year will be exciting and at times challenging, but we are looking forward to meeting many new people and learning a very different way of life. However, at the same time we will be missing all of our wonderful family and friends at home and everywhere else.

The next chapter

After a rough start, I am at the Long House Hotel in Bethel, Alaska only hours away from meeting up with Marta. As with most journeys this one has certainly required a degree of patience and effort . Unfortunately, this one came with an attachment containing a bureaucratic bullshit clause (see subsection Q, amendment XII).

It would be bad form to begin such a story with a completely negative attitude so I will end it here and hope to portray the wonderful opportunity that has been presented to us in a more positive light. Most importantly I have made it this far, accompanied by Hunter. He is a little worse for wear at the moment and hopefully will forgive us, but probably not. After subjecting the poor cat to one more flight, this time in a six passenger bush plane, we will arrive at our final stop in Emmonak.