Into the light

Taken at 11 PM (while writing this blog)

 It is 11 PM in Emmonak, and sleep seems to be escaping me again. The sun refuses to admit that it is bedtime, and so do the playing and screaming children just outside the house. I have yet to get used to the ever growing daylight and I am fooled on a daily basis when I look at the clock, only to find that it is several hours later than I had realized. Mornings are about the same as what I am used to, but these “latetime” hours are running a muck on my idea of nighttime, and are leaving me with circadian rhythm akin to a newly born giraffe trying to ice skate.

If it were summer, or at least the weekend, the noise and the light wouldn't be so bothersome. However, Marta has to wake up early for school in the morning in order to get lesson plans ready for the day, and there are still snow machines cruising around relentlessly, sounding as if there were chain saws on wheels, cutting down all of the rainforest, not more than twenty feet from our bedroom window. From the perspective of only hearing the above mentioned spectacle indoors, I have determined that there must be a direct correlation between the loudness and frequency at which one revs their engine, to the amount of toughness and size of genitalia that one possesses. If not, then I have no clue as to what could warrant such behavior.

The natives had many laughs at our expense on this one.

On a more positive note, the last few weeks have been moving on rapidly as our return home grows nearer. In addition to being able to come home soon, the increased sunlight has contributed to a steady rise in both of our moods. Also, during the last several weekends we have had the pleasure of having friends from neighboring schools come and stay with us. These visits have provided lots of entertainment and some much needed laughs. We also got to travel to Alukanuk, a village about twenty minutes away by snow machine, via cargo sled attached to snow machine and got to stay the night somewhere other than here. For me it was the first time out of Emo since Christmas.

Around town

Having a snow machine, like some of the teachers from the other villages, would have been a nice luxury, and possibly would have made the experience here more positive, but the cost and the hassle may not have been worth it. Just two days ago our friend Brittany came to stay the night and her snow machine was stolen right in front of our house. Due to a few serendipitous events and the small size of the village, we were able to track it down, where it was left abandon and most amazingly unharmed. We were able to start it up with relatively little effort and had just enough gas to make it to the tank farm (gas station). From there she was able to make it home with no more trouble. The worst part was that she had only got the thing a week ago and it already got stolen! Aparently it has become some big thing for a few of the "cool" kids to do for fun. There has been about ten snow machines stolen within only the last week or two. 

The sun is finally going down and I don't hear any more snow balls hitting the house so I am going to try and get some sleep. We are both very excited to come home in less than a month now, and can't wait to see every one that we have been away from.

Walking on water

 I was looking through some recent pictures when I realized that it has been quite a while since I have posted any updates. So here are some new pictures and news.

This picture of me to the left is an example of a typical days outfit, plus a little frost. We had a brief hiatus from the bitter cold for almost three weeks and thought that Spring was on its way. Hovering around + 30*F the temperature was a relief and made things much more bearable. However, now it is back into the negatives, but not too bad. The sun has been hanging out for longer and longer each day, up to an additional five minutes, which has been helping with the winter blues. Today I laid on the couch, in front of the window, and soaked up as much of its precious rays as I could.

Some time back I was given an entire king salmon that had been stuck in the back of our freezer at work. It was caught by Fish and Wildlife just in front of our house during the summer, so I was pretty excited to try it. After carrying the thing home, with a huge grin on my face, I was faced with the dilemma of what to do with it once at home. Fortunately, it fit in our stand up freezer, but then the question came up about how to divide it into manageable pieces for just two people. One option  would have been to just let the whole thing thaw out and feast on it for a couple of days. Not a bad choice, but I was hoping to enjoy the salmon over a period of time. Option two presented itself when I recalled having brought an over abundance of tools. Ah ha! The wood saw, a natural choice for dismantling a frozen carcass. It wasn't until I had begun hacking away at the poor fish that I even thought about how barbaric the situation was. But I suppose, when in Alaska... However gruesome the processing was, the results were effective and delicious. I also learned that salmon saw dust makes a great treat for the cats. Needless to say they were pleased.

The Yukon River in September

The same spot in February

Earlier this week Marta and I took advantage of a beautiful sunny day during the short Spring break and went on a walk across the river. We had not done that walk yet and is was kind of strange to conceptualize the event, having never really thought about the idea before. The crunching of the snow against the ice just beneath our feet made eerie sounds that changed in pitch depending on the thickness and density of the snow. Next to the banks and right in the middle the river looks just like a snow highway, which it essentially is, with sled grooves and track marks. It is not uncommon for young riders to cruise at speeds at over 100 mph!

Serving as a vital method of transportation not only within the village, but to and from other villages as well, the frozen river also serves as a hangout place for the youth in the area. This is made painfully apparent, especially in the evening, by the screaming snow machines racing by at all hours.

While on our walk we saw several sticks aligned in rows embedded in the ice which is the method for setting up nets for fishing. We also saw a man painstakingly chipping away at the ice to collect the chunks into buckets for water. I am told this was the common practice up until less than twenty years ago before the village was furnished with a modern water and sewer system. Apparently there are still some people that have to resort to this method when pipes freeze, or when a families poverty level prevents even the most basic of utilities.

Once on the other side of the river we could see the whole village and the perspective of seeing it from the outside really reminded me of how small it is. Living within the village and not travelling outside of it for prolonged periods of time make it feel bigger somehow. This, I imagine, is why so many people here seem to be content with staying here.

Having come from the outside though, it is difficult to be content knowing very well what else is out there and wanting to enjoy those pleasures not provided here. That is why our main goal at this point is to enjoy, as much as possible, the things that can only be seen and experienced here. Which there are plenty.

Fireworks, booze, and guns

 It has been awhile since my last update, but other than the passing of the holidays, it doesn't seem that anything of importance has happened. Holiday season away from family is difficult, so the events carry little significance and pass with little notice except for the much needed break from school and work.

We spent the week before Christmas in Anchorage and enjoyed the chance to have a change in scenery and unwind a little. The weather in Anchorage was considerably different than what we were getting used to in Emo. At 35*F we felt warm compared to the -30*F that we left back at home. It was great to catch up on eating some of our favorite foods and indulge in some craft beer and red wine after enduring a respite from our fermented friends. We spent some time wandering around the city and gawked at the drastic differences in the prices of similar things at the grocery store compared to the one I work at in the village. Finally, we spent a day at Mount Aleyeska and did some snowboarding and lazing in the lounge snacking on various fried things.

Christmas was spent with our new friends Greg and Candice who, with the help of their kids, kept close watch of the cats while we were on vacation. We feasted on turkey, stuffing (or as grandma calls it, dressing), fruit salad, and some delicious homemade bread. All of which was made from scratch by Candice. Sharing a nice home cooked meal with them helped to bolster our lacking holiday spirit, as did the many wonderful gifts that we received in the mail from family and friends. Thank you!

Although I personally didn't find this amusing, I'm sure that some will appreciate hearing about me getting suckered into being Santa for the AC store. I find myself to be an unlikely candidate for the job, but this was actually my second appearance as Santa. Fortunately this time none of the kids cried at the sight of me, but I have to say that I wouldn't have blamed them one bit as it was a pretty sketchy set up. First, they had to brave near blizzard conditions only to find that their Santa was some tall, skinny dude with hipster glasses. To make matters worse the "Santa station" (a folding chair next to a Christmas tree) was located in the poorly lit, back storage area of the store. The best part though, may have been that right next to me was a plain cardboard box filled with expired Halloween candy that the said "hipster Santa" would offer to the kids before having their picture taken. Other than that it was back to work as usual for me and Marta got a little while longer to relish in the time away from school. 

For New Years we met with a few of the teachers and had a nice dinner and played games until midnight. And just like with most places I have been to, the local tradition for celebrating independence seems to involve (in no particular order) fireworks, booze, guns, and screaming WOO! The only difference here was that it took place on a frozen river. We could only stand to watch the spectacle for a few minutes, not forgetting to mention it was nearly -40* that night.

The days are short and the isolation is much, we are missing home and looking forward to the idea of returning and staying awhile. The experiences and the extreme conditions so far are sure to remain etched in our memories for a long time. I'm not saying that things here are bad. However, I will say that when we get home I don't want to talk about having lived in Alaska for a year and not once going fishing.

Settling like the snow

Just like the snow, we have drifted to this place by way of the sky and are now trying to find our place here, if even only temporarily.

One day it snowed and the stuff has been everywhere ever since. The briefest of Springs has passed and Winter has fully manifested itself in a matter of less than two weeks. Temperature rated boots are out and equipping hats and gloves have become part of the daily routine. It is a nice change from the mud that still lurks somewhere under the icy surface. Everything looks so pristine and pure compared to what it looked like just a short while ago, with trash and mechanical parts strewn all over. It has become apparent that Winter is upon us. The river is starting to freeze and the locals simply smirk after asking, " is this your first Winter in Alaska?"

The sun seems to enjoy sleeping in until about 10:30 these days and has an early bed time around 5. The first big storm hit us a few days ago and gave us a hint of what we are in store for. Wind gusts hit up to 65 MPH, blowing every direction with intensity, and kept me convinced all night that a window was about to blow out at any time. Luckily that never happened. There were also flood warnings for this area, but noting materialized as it did in some nearby villages. I would have never thought that a frozen river could flood, but I suppose there are many things yet to learn.

Snow machines have nearly phased out four wheelers (Hondas) and speed by even faster and more recklessly. I did get t to ride on one for the first time and I understand why people drive so crazily. They are a lot of fun and traffic tickets are virtually nonexistent "round these parts". There are even tiny snow machines for kids. If I thought that I had ever shoveled snow before, it was quickly forgotten after having done it only a few times here. Apparently I'm building character.

Apt to adapt

Marta and I have been here for close to three months and are getting used to our new environment. There have been quite a bit of changes during this time and the list of life lessons continues to grow. When I first got here I had no definite plan for employment other than helping Marta while she gets used to her first year as a full-fledged teacher. My days mostly consisted of waking up at around 5:30 AM and preparing a breakfast and lunch for Marta before heading over to the school. There I would make copies and perform other small tasks while she got ready to teach all day. At home I kept up the housework and cooking and occupied myself by fixing up the house and wandering around town. Although I am severely directionally challenged, there are only so many places one can go and within a week I became fairly acclimated to the area.

A few weeks ago I was surprised by a phone call from the AC store (one of the only employers in town) in  response to my application and wanted to know if I still wanted to work. I went down to fill out the paperwork and within minutes I was learning how to stock shelves at a grocery store. I am currently averaging Forty hours a week doing everything from stocking, helping with deliveries, and sometimes working the cash register. My co-workers are great to work with and I feel very lucky to have the opportunity to get a more intimate interaction with the community on a daily basis.

Things have been a little rough since I took the job at the store though. I wasn't expecting to be working full time and I don't get home until close to Eight in the evening. The both of us have not had full time commitments at the same time for awhile now and the change has been tough to get used to, especially since Marta is at the very beginning of a new career. Fortunately we have the weekends together, but time is limited due to the copious amount of it required for lesson planing.

Aside from reading and watching movies, we like to go on long walks together, usually to the airport because the scenery is nice and there is a loop that brings us back into town. We recently went to the cemetery on a nice sunny day with our friend Sharon and enjoyed the path along the boardwalk through the trees. Also, Donkey Kong Country has become dangerously addicting and is perpetuating procrastination, but allows for a much needed distraction from the tires of the week.

Change is one of the necessary ingredients for this dish we call life and as Winter fast approaches we are sure to encounter plenty more. Remaining mindful of our goals and priorities will be the inspiration for us as we continue to live through this challenging venture.

And so it begins

The flight to Emo was surreal. The vast openness of the tundra supplemented by a menagerie of colors and textures is unlike anything I have seen. From the sky ponds and puddles speckled across the ground covered in various algae reminded me of looking into a Petri dish full of bacteria. Winding rivers and streams seemed almost like veins and capillaries flowing to the heart of the Bearing Sea. The seasoned hunter just in front of me had obviously seen this landscape numerous times before because as my eyes were fixed to the window the entire time, he was doing the sleepy head bob most of the way. After two hours though it starts to look pretty much the same, but still wonderful nonetheless.

Soon after the plane landed Hunter and I were picked up in the school truck by Marta and Bob, the principal. Happy reunion and off to the new home. Bob was hospitable enough to bring us via the scenic route past the dump and deteriorating road alongside the river. He thought this would be a nice way to show me what I was getting myself into. I received a first warm welcome from the seagulls as they feasted on open garbage bags and moose parts. Further down the muddy dirt road was the Honda and snow machine graveyard, which is actually an impressive attraction.  We passed the company store on the way into town and and continued further past some very modest local houses. Soon after arrived at our home.

View from our living room window

Situated practically right on the river our house is in a very nice location. It is somewhat away from the school so we don't get bothered too much by the rambunctious kids, but close enough that it is only a five minute walk away. Either of the two stores are fairly close as is the post office. The house itself is more than I had expected. There are two good sized bedrooms, a nice kitchen, a separate laundry room, and even a decent sized room where the water heater is that I use for tool storage. It has new carpet and linoleum, a new couch with even newer holes bitten into it (thanks Moggie), and two new Queen size beds.

After Spending only a little time getting situated at home we were off to the community center to watch some Yu'pik song and dance. It turns out that I arrived on the same day that a weekend long community event was starting. This was great because I got to introduce myself to a lot of new people and get a great chance to see some of the traditional culture from this area. At this event there were prizes consisting of different clothing items as well as snacks and treats in addition to the different songs and dances. And of course no community get together can be complete without Eskimo line dancing. Yes, its true. There was even country music and they were quite good at it.

It was sure an exciting day and I feel most fortunate to be able to live these sorts of events. The next couple of days consisted of more community events like watching the kids play basketball, making tie die shirts, and having a barbeque, but most of all just getting settled in and acclimated to this new place. This next year will be exciting and at times challenging, but we are looking forward to meeting many new people and learning a very different way of life. However, at the same time we will be missing all of our wonderful family and friends at home and everywhere else.

The next chapter

After a rough start, I am at the Long House Hotel in Bethel, Alaska only hours away from meeting up with Marta. As with most journeys this one has certainly required a degree of patience and effort . Unfortunately, this one came with an attachment containing a bureaucratic bullshit clause (see subsection Q, amendment XII).

It would be bad form to begin such a story with a completely negative attitude so I will end it here and hope to portray the wonderful opportunity that has been presented to us in a more positive light. Most importantly I have made it this far, accompanied by Hunter. He is a little worse for wear at the moment and hopefully will forgive us, but probably not. After subjecting the poor cat to one more flight, this time in a six passenger bush plane, we will arrive at our final stop in Emmonak.